Pan dulce · people · 24th Street

La Victoria SF

A bakery can outlive an address without having a simple story. La Victoria’s thread runs through migration, family stewardship, bakers, recipes, a shared kitchen, a painful closure, and a return to 24th Street.

A diagram of San Francisco's setting. La Victoria's story belongs to a specific Mission corridor, not to a generic city skyline.

Three connected jobs

Knowledge, practice, and a living bakery

Gourmet Gastronomer maps durable food knowledge. Sour Flourturns one branch of that knowledge into sourdough baking and hands-on learning. La Victoria is not an offshoot of either project: it is an older Mission institution with its own lineage.

The connection became material in 2010, when Sour Flour began baking inside La Victoria’s shared production kitchen. Laura Hernandez, a longtime La Victoria baker, and Danny Gabriner of Sour Flour later carried the bakery’s work into its new 24th and Capp chapter. The oven, tables, staff knowledge, and delivery systems mattered as much as any abstract partnership.

That history widens this encyclopedia’s view of San Francisco bread. The city is not only sourdough starter and hearth loaves. It is also Mexican pan dulce, immigrant entrepreneurship, family labor, shared commercial kitchens, neighborhood ritual, and the people who keep a production tradition alive when its building changes hands.

A documented chronology

More than one storefront. More than one kind of continuity.

The dates are not perfectly tidy. Where the City record and published reporting disagree, the disagreement stays visible.

  1. 1951 / 1962Origins

    A bakery takes root on 24th Street

    Gabriel Maldonado established La Victoria in the Mission after coming to the United States through the bracero program. San Francisco's Legacy Business record dates La Victoria Mexican Pastries to 1962; KQED, Eater, and other longstanding press accounts cite 1951. The year remains disputed.

  2. 1967The corner

    24th and Alabama becomes the long public face

    City archival research places La Victoria at 2937 24th Street beginning in 1967. Its position near St. Peter's Church joined the bakery to the weekly and ceremonial rhythms of the neighborhood, while the attached restaurant became a gathering place in its own right.

  3. 1990s–2010sAdaptation

    Family stewardship and a shared kitchen

    Jaime Maldonado took over operations from his father as the Mission changed around the bakery. He adjusted the retail mix and rented production space to small food businesses. Sour Flour began baking there in 2010; by 2015 KQED found several producers working from the kitchen.

  4. 2018Rupture

    The Alabama Street storefront closes

    A fire, tenant litigation, repair costs, and a dispute inside the family trust converged around the property. Laura Hernandez was managing the bakery and Sour Flour was a kitchen subtenant when the building was sold and the occupants were required to leave. The old storefront closed in October.

  5. 2019Return

    Bakers and recipes come back at 24th and Capp

    After a roughly two-month transition, Hernandez and Danny Gabriner opened at 3249 24th Street. Contemporary reporting called the operation Victoria SF and noted that the Maldonado family retained rights to the earlier name. The return carried people, production knowledge, and familiar pan dulce into a new legal and physical chapter.

  6. 2025–todayRecognition

    La Victoria SF becomes a Legacy Business

    San Francisco added La Victoria SF to its Legacy Business Registry in 2025. The public shop remains on 24th Street, while production moved through separate facilities. Current service and availability belong to La Victoria SF's own site.

Evidence note: the 2025 City record uses 1962; KQED, Eater, the Chronicle, and other reporting use 1951. The same sources also differ on the exact year Jaime Maldonado took over operations. This page does not choose a cleaner date merely because it is easier to tell.

Use precise nouns

What closed, what moved, and what endured

“The bakery continued” hides several different things. Separating them makes the 2018–2019 transition understandable.

01

The building

The Maldonado family trust sold the 24th and Alabama property. The old corner ceased to be La Victoria’s home.

02

The name

Reporting in 2019 said the family retained rights to the earlier name. The returning operation initially used Victoria SF.

03

The people and recipes

Hernandez, Gabriner, former employees, and familiar production knowledge moved into the new operation.

04

The civic lineage

San Francisco’s 2025 registry recognizes La Victoria SF as the continuing Legacy Business while preserving its location and ownership history.

Continuity through work

The people carry the story

A sign can mark a corner. It cannot mix, shape, bake, repair equipment, pack orders, or remember a customer.

Gabriel Maldonado

Founded the original bakery and placed Mexican baking on a corridor then associated mainly with Irish and Italian businesses.

Jaime Maldonado

Ran the bakery through decades of demographic and economic change, adapting the retail mix and opening the kitchen to other producers.

Laura Hernandez

Worked at La Victoria for years, managed its final period at Alabama Street, and became a steward and owner of the returning operation.

Danny Gabriner

Built Sour Flour inside the shared kitchen and partnered with Hernandez in the bakery’s next chapter.

The bakery team

Bakers and coworkers carried the practical continuity: recipes, shaping memory, oven judgment, packing, maintenance, and delivery.

The neighborhood

Customers, churches, schools, cultural events, and 24th Street foot traffic made the bakery a social institution rather than production alone.

Follow the living story

Read the history here. Meet the bakery there.

What belongs where

History here. Current bakery information at victoriasf.com.

Gourmet Gastronomer preserves a durable, sourced account. La Victoria SF’s own site holds current hours, availability, ordering, accessibility, seasonal breads, and contact information. Those details can change faster than an encyclopedia page should.

Go to victoriasf.com